When most people think of excursions from San Francisco, their compass points north toward the wine valleys of Napa, the rocky coast north from Bolinas, the stark hills and pine forests of Sonoma. But the compass has many points, and since we are often travel contrarians, we went a couple of hours in the opposite direction toward Santa Cruz and found many pleasures with the family.

The first major tourist center to the south is Santa Cruz.  It's a sweet little college town, with a beautiful main street, good for walking, java stops and adult shopping. But first, you must drop the kids at the Boardwalk.

Summer Lovin'... Sun & Sand

The Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk (400 Beach St., Santa Cruz 95060, 831/423-5590) opened in 1907, and it's the oldest of America's great beachfront amusement parks, with rides, games, arcades, bowling alley and a Looff carousel, nationally landmarked, dating to 1911.

To enhance the nostalgia, the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk has been a leader in the midway preservation movement. In 2004, they acquired "Laughing Sal" from the former Playland-at-the-Beach in San Francisco and installed him next to Neptune's Kingdom.  For their 2007 Centennial, Playland's rare Wurlitzer 165 Band Organ was added to the collection of historic organs. One of only 24 authentic waterfront amusement parks left in the United States according to Park World, the entire Boarwalk is a designated California Historic Landmark. 

This place is a foolproof hit for kids of many ages and good for several hours of fun.  It's open daily Memorial through Labor Day, weekends only spring and fall.

Around Santa Cruz are beautiful Pacific beaches with water that's a bit too cold for most, but your kids may dive in. There's the Club Ed Surf School (located at Santa Cruz Wharf in front of the West Coast Santa Cruz Hotle on Cowell Beach  95060 , 800/287-SURF) for your teens, and whale watching cruises. Inland, there are several picturesque hiking trails along the Pacific bluffs.

Up in the hills near Felton, you'll find the Roaring Camp Railroad (Felton, CA 95018 831/335-4484).  It's a 19th-century steam-driven train that hauled logs in another life and now takes tourists on a delightful one-hour ride through some of the few remaining old-growth redwoods.  The train stops for a short walk among these majestic titans. Back at the station, you can saunter over to a respectable Bar-B-Q buffet and a silly, old-fashioned stage melodrama. You can even combine these experiences: take Roaring Camp's Pacific line 30 miles up from the Boardwalk,  join the Big Trees train for a little tour, and steam back to the coast.  Advance reservations are a must all summer and weekends.

Fall Festivals & Cool Weather Fun

If it's too chilly for some of the region's great beach attractions, plan a day trip to the world-renowned Monterey Bay Aquarium (886 Cannery Row, Monterey CA  93940, 831/648-4800) to do some horseback riding, or to the fun and noisy stockcar races at Watsonville.

Also located here are some of the region's best apple orchards.  Gizdich Ranch (55 Peckham Road, Watsonville  95076 831/722-1056), at 55 Peckham Road, Watsonville 95076, covers over 60 acres of green hills.  Founded in 1937 by Vincent John Gizdich, the ranch allows for visitors, especially families, to enter the orchard fields to "Pik-Yor-Sef."  Walking through the hills you can pick as many apples as you desire for nearly one-third the price of produce store apple.  Red Delicious, Golden Delicious and Newton Pippins are some of the best types of apples Gizdich grows.  However, aside from apples, Gizdich also serves as a great location for berry farming, with strawberries, raspberries, olallie berries and more available from May to July.  All the fruits make for great jams, pies, fruit juices and sauces.  Stop by Eata Nita Pie Shop, located on the farm's grounds, to purchase some amazing freshly baked, homemade pies.  Tours of the grounds are also offered.

One of the most exciting things about Santa Cruz is the annual County Fair (2601 East Lake Ave, Watsonville 95076 831/724-5671).  Going back to at least the late 1880's (no one can agree of the exact year), the September Fair is one of the highlights of the back-to-school season.  Each fall it's held in mid-September and -- for five days! -- features a big barbecue, carnival and entertainment from bands like The Ramblers and Jeff Carson.  Located on East Lake Avenue in Watsonville, the fair is centered around six historic buildings.  There is also a livestock auction and, more recently, the "Santa Cruz County Fair Idol" in which hopeful teenage singers and dancer show their town what they got.

Details, Details

Now it's time to check in, not just any old sleeping establishment, but to a destination unto itself. Just south of Santa Cruz in Aptos, perched on the bluffs above Monterey Bay, you'll find Seascape Resort (One Seascape Resort Drive, Aptos 95003, 800/929-7727). This is a mixture of Pacific-coast-style, cedar-sided condominiums and hotel rooms within 5,000 acres of planned community, with two outdoor pools, a lovely paved-for-strollers path down to the Pacific, a free kid's program (seasonally available for ages 3-13), golf course, spa, tennis courts and more.

More than any distinct charm, it's the service, cuisine and facilities that make Seascape the best base for an active family at any time of year. (It's also very popular for weddings and reunions if our visit was typical.)

$$$$ - $$$$$  Rates for a two-bedroom villa with kitchen, fireplace, and balcony depend on season and view. Book ahead to be sure that one of these privately-owned condominium units is available.

Film producer Ron Bozman is an occasional contributor to FTF and a frequent family traveler.