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by Kyle McCarthy

It's a rare breed of hotel which lures travelers to its facilities rather than its locale. Families may expect to see so-called "destination resorts" in the Caribbean or Hawai'i, but only occasionally do we encounter one in an urban setting. That it should be off I-4 in Orlando, Florida, close to all the theme parks, makes perfect sense.

The Gaylord Company, owners of two large Opryland Resort and Convention Centers (Nashville and Grapevine, Texas), have opened Gaylord Palms, a 63-acre convention resort with 1,406 rooms around a 4-acre landscaped atrium. Sheltered in a biosphere under a huge glass dome, hurricane-proofed with white steel girders are shelter ponds stocked with koi, a concrete replica of a Spanish colonial castillo, waterfalls, plazas with comfortable seating areas, live Royal and date palms, orchids, swamp ferns and tropical flowers.

Overlooking the fun are eight stories of guest rooms decorated with appropriate geographic motifs:  wrought iron and mahogany in the St. Augustine wing, rattan and playful tropical colors at Key West, sawgrass accents and natural wood for the Everglades, and earth tones mixed with monkey-patterned fabrics to exemplify the subtle "Gulf Coast" look of the higher-end Emerald Bay wing. 

There are family pluses to a convention hotel.  Because the Gaylord Palms focuses on business people, you'll find both the adult and family pools (the latter with an octopus waterslide) less crowded during the day than at most Orlando hotels. The synthetic environment, perfect for entertaining conventioneers who are "stuck" indoors all day, will keep infants and toddlers in strollers mesmerized. Families with young children will particularly enjoy the Everglades wing, where balconies overlook a "swamp" with special effects fog and a large "alligator." This wing is above the terrific Canyon Ranch SpaClub (a welcome antidote to the faux environment) and close to the children's daycare, swimming pools, and steakhouse restaurant. Your teens may prefer the hipper Key West rooms, which overlook a boisterous bar with live music and a docked 60-foot sailboat.

All rooms are graciously stocked with complimentary bottled water and O.J. in an otherwise empty minifridge, plus a coffemaker, ironing setup, two-line phones and complimentary broadband Internet access. Dozens of cool techo-features include vending machines which charge purchases to guest room keycards. The 115 suites are very spacious, deluxe and expensive; less costly are the smaller outward facing rooms, which overlook the "real world" so you can judge the weather (but you're also stuck with sealed windows.) Cribs and highchairs are easily available.

Restaurants such as Sunset Sam's Fish Camp with its tasty seafood menu, enormous and colorful fruity drinks, kids' menu and serendipitous mimes and jugglers, or Java Coast, the pseudo-al fresco cafe overlooking shops and the lively lobby, add to the Floridian fun. The friendly staff provides good service, en masse.

Don't expect the intimacy of a smaller hotel where waiters may remember your kids' names and parents feel comfortable letting older children wander around alone. In fact, all Gaylord guests under 14 are expected to be supervised, which is why the La Petite Academy Kids Station (407/586-2505, 800/527-3848) on premises is so convenient. At La Petite Academy, a CPR and First Aid-trained staff (each working with up to 10 children) will watch kids ages 3-14 years on a drop-in basis daily, day or night (hours vary by season.)  Rates are reasonable, based on the number of children from the same family.  La Petite Academy is independent from Gaylord Palms, and licensed and insured to welcome any local or visiting children. Their facility is large, spotless and well maintained, with a huge climbing jungle gym structure, ball-play area, reading corner, air-hockey games, rest area with videos and myriad craft projects, books and toys to explore.

Its convenient presence in the hotel makes an excellent pedicure or superb massage at the classy Canyon Ranch day spa downstairs practical...and guilt-free!  Although La Petite Academy staff will do private babysitting in your room for infants ($18/hour), they are not licensed to escort children to the pool or leave the premises, unless it's a special daycamp prearranged by a group.

Gaylord Palms Resort, Kissimmee, Florida 34746 www.gaylordpalms.com;  407/586-0000 $$  B+  A  B    A- Extra Credit: On-site nursery is huge plus. Comments:  If size doesn't matter, you'll love the heated pools, jacuzzis, fitness room, shops and more.

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